Original Article written by Eric Gee
Version 1.0.0 March 2007 (c) Toronto Inline Skating Club Canada
Contributors will be credited as this article is built.
Basics
Since the invention of the Rollerblade Inline Skate, equipment has been progressing in leaps and bounds. We have gone from 70mm wheels and plastic frames to 110mm specially blended compound polyeurethane and aircraft aluminum. We’ve seen designs that mimic ice skating equipment come and go. Much of the equipment that we use today have been tested by the best skaters in the world. So for now – we will discuss what some of the basics are and how to select the best combination for your skill level and wallet.
“You get what you pay for”
Whether you are talking about cars or skates – that old adage holds true. The more expensive the gear, the better the quality and precision. This being said, the difference between a $700 setup and a $2000 setup isn’t much. If we are talking bicycles – there would be a difference however, when referring to something that must fit your body more closely, it really depends on the shape of your feet.
Boots
The most important component of your setup is the boot. If you select a good quality, good fitting boot, you will be able to skate many hours without problems. If the boot doesn’t fit properly, be prepared to either make it fit, or deal with painful blisters and pressure points throughout the life of the boot. Very few skaters will have anatomically perfect feet, most will have to deal with minor adjustments to the boot.Many bootmakers produce a stock and custom model. In most cases the boots are made the same way, except in how the last is made. A last is a form which represents the human foot and is used to construct the skating boot.
Stock boots are made on a standard, average last. Custom boots are made using a carefully crafted plaster last, based on the shape of the foot it was made from. You can guess which is going to be part of the $2000 setup.
When choosing a boot here are some points to remember:
Choose a boot that fits well – mail ordering is a bad idea if the dealer doesn’t offer exchanges. Depending on your feet, you may need to consider both length and width. Some manufacturers will make a semi-custom boot based on two different sizes. For example, if the width of your foot fits into a size 10 boot, but only a size 7 in length, this can usually be accomodated.
Do not ignore major fit issues – if the boot is tight or you feel pressure in the ankle or big toe – DO NOT buy that boot (or size). Minor issues when you are standing flat in a pair of boots will magnify by what feels like 100 times when you’re actually out there skating.
Some minor fit issues CAN be resolved with heat – if the boot is a little bit off (which is to be expected) minor pressure points can be adjusted using an oven or hot air gun to heat mold the boot. When you’re attempting to manipulate a boot keep the following points in mind:
- Leather can be molded if sufficiently soaked in water – to keep the shape, it needs to dry in the desired position. Wet forming leather is best done with near boiling temperature water.
- If done too many times, leather can become tough and brittle. Air dry and use a protective leather cream.
- Microfiber (what newer boots are made from) is a synthetic, lighter weight leather. Wet molding will have little to no effect.
- Older Carbon Fiber or Fiberglass will not mold – by old, we’re referring to skates that are purchased used or several years old. Many resins continue to harden over time. Addition of heat can damage the fiber.
- Not all boot shells are heat moldable – this depends on testing performed by the boot-maker. Keep in mind that many room temperature cured epoxy resins used to make high performance carbon fiber parts, HARDEN when heat is applied. That means each and every time you attempt to heat mold, it will get more and more difficult.
- Most boots are designed to be molded in the ankle area only – if you attempt to mold any other part of the boot – it may be difficult or impossible. Even if you are successful, the boot can become warped, thus affecting the frame positioning. Again – it depends on the boot manufacturer. Some boots on the market have been tested to allow full heat molding capabilities. This is due to a high thermoplastic content in the boot construction process. Thermoplastic is unfortunately, heavier than carbon.
- If you’re just starting out in speed skating, avoid selecting a low-cut boot – the cut of a boot or the height, is personal preference. Through experience we can tell you that it is not always a good idea for the beginner to select a boot that is too low for their skill level. A low cut boot may become unstable if the skater becomes fatigued at high speeds. It is also limited in functionality – it is more difficult to use a low cut boot for anything other than marathon and long track.
